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About Us
Menai Animal Hospital
At Menai Animal Hospital we can give you and your pets service that you can't get anywhere else, so you don't have to travel elsewhere, to receive a comprehensive range of small animal medical, surgical and diagnostic services including: Consultations, desexing and breeding, vaccinations and wellness care, X-rays, ultrasound and endoscopic equipment,
in-house pathology, human grade anaesthetic machine and surgical equipment for most soft tissue and orthopaedic procedures.
Experienced Veterinarian
Our veterinary surgeon here at Menai Animal Hospital is Dr Kay Pitkeathly. She is passionate about pet health care and loves to find solutions to problems. She has done a lot of years of post graduate work in pet health including surgery of eyes, ears, abdomen and orthopaedics. She has worked here for over 30 years and she has a lot of knowledge that can help you with your pet and will be happy to discuss options for your pet's care. You can trust her to be honest with you. She offers you continuity of care that other hospitals where you see a different person each time can't.
A Personal Approach
At Menai Vet we love animals. We genuinely care about your pets. We have chosen to dedicate our lives to the health and welfare of animals. We understand how important your pet is: a member of your family. This practice has grown by caring and providing friendly personal and professional service and facilities. We care for your pet as if it were our own. We guarantee you the highest standard of quality pet care.
THE DANGERS OF LEPTOSPIROSIS
There has been an outbreak of Leptospirosis in Sydney. Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease that can kill dogs in 48 hours and can also in some cases be fatal to humans. Until recently it had never caused a canine death in NSW, but in the past 3 months seven dogs have died from the disease. The disease is spread by rodents. It is stored in the kidneys of infected animals and spread in their urine. Dogs become infected by direct contact with the rat for example a rat bite, or by them biting the rat or eating it or via indirect contact by drinking urine contaminated water or eating food that has rodent urine on it. Humans can become infected by contact with an infected dog’s urine, or if they have a wound that comes into contact with soil or water contaminated with urine, or by a rat bite. They can also become infected by eating contaminated food or by drinking contaminated water. It can take up to 7 days to see symptoms in dogs. These can be fever, shivering, muscle tenderness, reluctance to move, increased thirst, changes in the frequency and the amount of urination, dehydration, vomiting, diarrhoea, loss of appetite, lethargy, jaundice, or painful inflammation of the eyes. Leptospirosis can cause serious damage to the kidneys, liver and may be fatal. Humans may not show signs for 2 – 25 days, but in 90% of human cases these are mild and mimic influenza. Less commonly a more severe disease can develop, which can be similar to that which we see in dogs and is known as Weil’s disease. According to NSW Health these more severe symptoms include kidney failure, jaundice and haemorrhage into skin and mucous membranes. Meningitis (inflammation of the lining of the brain) and bleeding into the lungs can also occur. Most people who develop these more severe symptoms are hospitalised and severe leptospirosis can be fatal. This year there have been 51 cases reported but so far none related to the current outbreak in dogs. Dogs can be vaccinated against this disease, but this is not part of their normal C5 vaccination, it is in the extra C7 vaccination. If you are at all concerned come in and speak to us or call and book in to have the vaccination for your dog.
Breeding
Artificial insemination, Semen freezing and evaluation, fertility problems, progesterone testing, caesarean sections and postnatal care of puppies, kittens and mothers
We have a vet that is very experienced with breeding and some of our nurses are dog and cat breeders they are only too happy to help with your concerns.
How to prepare your dogs for breeding
As soon as your bitch is in season
- Get your bitch swabbed – a vaginal swab should be done asap so if there is infection you have time to treat it before mating. Remember infection will reduce conception rate and infections kill pups. The interpretation of the swab result by your vet is important and you may not need antibiotics but don’t kid yourself and think a course of clavulox is going to be the answer instead of a swab. Clavulox does not fix all infections. Of course a bitch may get an infection after she is swabbed (possibly from the male or because of hormonal effects on uterus) but that is no excuse for not doing a swab.
- Check the stud dog is fertile. Take him to your vet for a semen analysis. Remember the first ejaculation is frequently sterile or of low fertility, so it may be advisable ‘to empty his pipes’ beforehand. Don’t wait till you want to use him over your bitch to find you need another stud fast. There are many options for infertility in males, but most take more than 48 hours to treat effectively. Make sure the vet does more than look at a spot of semen for motility – a semen analysis should look at concentration and morphology also.
Five days after season starts
Get a blood test for progesterone.
· Accurate timing of mating is important
· Every bitch will have a different cycle every time she comes on heat
· Progesterone tests are the most effective way of knowing the correct day to breed.
· There are at least 5 different types of cycles a bitch may have
You can contact us for more information about Progesterone testing
· There are 2 different scales used depending on the laboratory, there are common units [ng/ml] and SI units [nmol/L]. Convert from common to international SI by multiplying by 3.18, or convert from SI to common by multiplying by 0.315.
· The day of ovulation is different for every bitch every cycle – don’t presume this cycle will be the same as the last cycle.
· If you only do 2 progesterone test you may be lucky and predict accurately but in most cases 3 tests [sometimes more] are required but your vet will advise the best time to do the next test.
· Progesterone levels are used to predict the time of ovulation. After progesterone exceeds 15 nmol/L [5ng/ml], there is a surge in luteinizing hormone and ovulation occurs [most bitches are multiple ovulators and will release eggs over 2-4 days], the oocyte matures and are ready for fertilisation about 2 days later, so often much higher progesterone levels are used as indicators of timing of matings – usually the indicator numbers are 25nmol/L or 8 ng/ml. it is usually consider too late to mate if progesterone is over 100nmolL [30ng/ml].
· Optimum fertility when bitch is breed 2 to 4 days after ovulation
Progesterone Nmol/L International units
Progesterone Ng/ml common units
Interpretation
Plan
Less than 3
Less than 2.0
Too early
Recheck in 2-5 days or as advised by vet
3-10
2.0-3.5
Too early no ovulation yet
Recheck in 2 days. Be prepared to begin breeding
10
3.5
Ovulation is likely to happen in 24-48 hrs
Recheck in 1-2 days. Plan breeding for 24-48 hrs from test
15
5.0
Ovulation will occur in 24hrs
Breed 24-72hrs after test
20-25
4.0-8.0
Ovulation
Begin breeding
25-50
8.0-15.0
1-2 days after ovulation fertile period
Breed ASAP
50-100
15-30
Late oestrus. May still get good fertility if surgical AI but is later than desirable
May have reduced fertility
>100
>30
Too late (except for surgical AI)
Next cycle test earlier
Best Plan:
Progesterone test till >15nmol/L (or 5ng/ml). Mate 24-48 hrs after this . Repeat mating 24 hrs later. It is possible to successfully mate even if >50nmol/L (15ng/ml), but too late if >100nmol/L (30ng/ml). If mate late in cycle then best to do surgical AI
Mating
Semen needs to get to the right spot for pregnancy to occur.
Statistically natural matings have a lower conception rate [61.2% ] than artificial insemination [fresh semen 71.8%, frozen semen 81.7%]. Even higher rates are reported with AI directly into the uterus [95% with surgical or transcervical insemination]. So you need to consider your options well before your bitch is ready so everything can happen at the right time.
In Summary
The most costly part of breeding is not the vet fees but the lack of income if you don’t get a litter from your bitch.
Prepare both bitch and stud dog to improve your chances of a successful litter.
The major reasons for not getting a litter are
· Infection
· Improper timing of breeding
· Poor semen quality
· Semen not getting to the right spot
Age of your breeding bitch and stud dog
BREEDING DOGS AND REARING PUPPIES
Breeding from your bitch and raising her puppies can be an extremely rewarding experience or it may produce frustration and failure. Pet bitches are often torn between their instinctive desire to be with their puppies and the routines they have acquired with their owners. This can lead to problems and should be borne in mind before breeding is contemplated. Also raising a litter of puppies is an extremely time-consuming exercise and one which should not be embarked upon without due consideration. The following information is provided in order to increase your chances of success.
How often does a bitch come into heat?
The bitch comes into heat about every 6 months, although very large breeds of dogs may cycle anything up to once in 15 months. In most giant breeds (Great Danes, Irish Wolfhounds, St Bernards etc.) a yearly heat is normal. Normally most dogs are on heat for about 3 weeks.
What are the signs of heat?
The most notable sign of heat is vaginal bleeding. This begins about the end of the first week and lasts for about 9-14 days. Another consistent sign is swelling of the vulva. During this period male dogs will be attracted to her. There are also behavioral changes with the hormone changes – most often bitches are sooky and want more attention.
What should I do to be sure that a mating is accomplished successfully?
Male dogs are more successful when the environment is familiar. Therefore, it is preferable to take the female to the male's home for breeding. The timing for mating is critical. The most fertile time is considered the 10th through the 14th days of the heat period. However, some dogs will be fertile as early as the 3rd day and as late as the 18th day.
Are there tests to determine when to mate my bitch?
There are two tests that are used for this purpose:
The first is a microscopic examination of vaginal cells to detect changes in cell appearance and numbers. This has been used for many years and is reasonably reliable. A more recent test determines changes in the progesterone level in the blood. This test is very sensitive and can often get results in about 12 hours. It gives a very good indication of when mating is most likely to be successful. It is used for dogs that have a history of unsuccessful mating or for very valuable bitches and whenever you don't want to miss out on a successful mating.
What should I expect during my dog's pregnancy?
Pregnancy, also called the gestation period, normally ranges from 60 to 67 days, the average being 63 days. Most dogs deliver (whelp) between days 63 and 65. The only way to accurately determine the stage of pregnancy is to count days from the time of mating. With all planned matings the date should be recorded and the bitch then examined approximately 3 weeks from the date of mating to detect the signs of pregnancy. Ultrasound scans can be carried out at around the 28th day and radiographs from around day 42.
Pregnancy xray 42days
Feeding
It is important that a bitch is in good condition before she is mated, neither too fat nor too thin. Her food intake should not be altered during the first two thirds of her pregnancy, and if a complete formula is being fed there is no need to use additional vitamin or mineral supplements. After the 6th week food intake should be gradually increased and high energy, low bulk foods may be useful in ensuring the bitch is adequately nourished e.g. puppy food. As abdominal pressure increases with the size of the foetuses, smaller meals fed more frequently may be helpful. During the last three weeks food intake will often increase by up to one and a half times the normal level and at the height of lactation, approximately three weeks after whelping, food intake is often two and a half to three times normal, particularly if she is feeding a large litter.
What should I do to prepare for whelping?
From the time of mating, many dogs show behavioral changes. Most develop an unusually sweet and loving disposition and demand more affection and attention. However, some may become uncharacteristically irritable. Some experience a few days of vomiting ("morning sickness"), followed by the development of a ravenous appetite which persists throughout the pregnancy.
During the last week or so of pregnancy, the bitch often starts to look for a secure place for delivery. Pet bitches often become confused, wanting to be with their owners and at the same time wanting to prepare for the forthcoming event. It is therefore a good idea to get the bitch used to the place where you want her to have her puppies well in advance of whelping but even then some bitches insist on having their pups in close proximity to the owner. Under these circumstances it is better to let the bitch have her way and then when she has finished, gently try moving her to the place that she should have already been introduced to some days or weeks previously. However some bitches are very determined and under these circumstances less trauma is caused if, within reason, her demands are met or at least some compromise is achieved, e.g. the bitch that wants to nurse the puppies on your bed is quietly moved to a whelping box in a corner of the bedroom. Ideally you may prefer her to use the whelping box you had prepared for her in a quiet corner of the kitchen. Similarly some bitches need the owner present during the whole time of delivery and if they are left alone they are likely to endeavour to delay delivery of the puppies which can create subsequent problems - compromise is the name of the game!
Prior to the time of delivery, a whelping box should be selected and placed in a secluded place, such as a closet or a dark corner. The box should be large enough for the dog to move around freely, but have low enough sides so that she can see out and you can reach inside to give assistance, if needed. The bottom of the box should be lined with several layers of newspapers. These provide disposable, absorbent bedding which the bitch can tear up and reorganise according to her own requirements. At the same time they will absorb the fluids which are always more copious than you would ever expect at the time of whelping. If sufficient thickness of newspaper is laid at the outset, the upper, soiled layers may be removed with minimal interruption to the mother and her newborn puppies.
What happens during parturition?
Most dogs experience delivery without complications. However, with a bitch having puppies for the first time a careful watch should be kept upon her until she has finished, just in case any complications develop. If the owner elects to leave, care should be taken so that the dog does not try to follow and leave the whelping box, and she should be checked regularly. (Only leave her if you are prepared to lose one or more pups). Supervision is advisable for any bitch that is whelping.
Signs of impending whelping
These generally include nervousness and panting. The bitch will often stop eating during the last 24 hours before labour although with some breeds this does not apply. All the textbooks tell you that rectal temperature will drop below 100°F (37.8°C) but this again may only occur an hour or two before she starts producing.
Delivery times will vary. Dogs having slim heads, such as Shelties, Collies, and Dobermans, may complete delivery in one to two hours. Dogs having large, round heads generally require longer delivery times. English Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, and Pekingese puppies tend to have sizeable heads that make delivery more difficult. It is not unusual for these breeds to rest an hour or more between each puppy. Rarely, a dog may deliver one or two puppies, then have labour stop for as long as twenty-four hours before the remainder of the litter is born. However, if the bitch does not start to strain in two hours and you think there are further puppies veterinary advice should be sought without delay.
The normal birth position
Puppies are usually born head first; with the head and forelegs extended. This is called anterior presentation. Posterior presentation is also normal in the bitch. The puppy is born with tail and hindlegs coming first. Breech presentation in which the hindlegs are forward and the tail and rump is presented is abnormal. However it does occur and can result in a normal birth although breech presentations frequently present problems. If a puppy's rump is presented and the bitch is straining continuously without making any progress, veterinary attention should be sought without delay. Each puppy is enclosed in a sac that is part of the placenta ("afterbirth"). These usually pass after the puppies are born. However, any that do not pass usually disintegrate and are passed within 24-48 hours after delivery. If the bitch develops a blood stained, pussy or smelly discharge consult your veterinary surgeon. Note that it is normal for the mother to eat the placentas.
If the delivery proceeds normally, a few contractions will discharge the puppy; it should exit the birth canal within ten minutes of being visible. Following delivery, the mother should lick the newborn's face. She will then proceed to wash it and toss it about. Her tongue is used to tear the sac and expose the mouth and nose. This vigorous washing stimulates circulation, causing the puppy to cry and begin breathing; it also dries the newborn's haircoat. The mother will sever the umbilical cord by chewing it about to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.5 cm) from the body. Next, she will eat the placenta.
If the puppy or a fluid-filled bubble is partially visible from the vagina, the owner should assist delivery. A piece of dampened gauze or thin face cloth can be used to break the bubble and grasp the head or feet. When a contraction occurs, firm traction should be applied in a downward (i.e. toward her rear feet) direction. If reasonable traction is applied without being able to remove the puppy, or if the mother cries intensely during this process, the puppy is wedged. Veterinary help may be needed.
It is normal for the mother to remove the placental sac and clean the puppies; however, first-time mothers may be bewildered by the experience and hesitate to do so. If the sac is not removed within a few minutes after delivery, the puppy will suffocate, so you should be prepared to intervene. The puppy's face should be wiped with a damp face cloth or gauze to remove the sac and allow breathing. Vigorous rubbing with a warm. soft towel will stimulate circulation and dry the hair. If the puppy does not start to take a breath, gentle blowing down the throat after gently opening the mouth with the fingers also helps to assist respiration. The umbilical cord should be tied using sewing thread or dental floss and cut with clean scissors. The cord should be tied snugly and cut about half an inch (1.3 cm) from the body so it is unlikely to be pulled off as the puppy moves around the whelping box.
Newborn puppies may aspirate fluid into the lungs, as evidenced by a raspy noise during respiration. This fluid can be removed by the following procedure. First, the puppy should be held in the palm of your hand. The puppy's face should be cradled between the first two fingers. The head should be held firmly with this hand, and the body should be held firmly with the other. Next, a downward swing motion with the hands should make the puppy gasp. Gravity will help the fluid and mucus to flow out of the lungs. This process may be tried several times until the lungs sound clear. The tongue is a reliable indicator of successful respiration. If the puppy is getting adequate oxygen, it will appear pink to red. A bluish coloured tongue indicates insufficient oxygen to the lungs, signalling that the swinging procedure should be repeated.
It is helpful to have a smaller, clean, dry box lined with a warm towel for the newborn puppies. After the puppy is stable and the cord has been tied, it should be placed in the incubator box while the mother is completing delivery. Warmth is essential so a heating pad or hot water bottle should be placed in the box, or a heat lamp may be placed nearby. If a heating pad is used, it should be placed on the low setting and covered with a towel to prevent overheating. A hot water bottle should be covered with a towel. Remember, the newborn puppies may be unable to move away from the heat source. Likewise, caution should also be exercised when using a heat lamp.
Once delivery is completed, the soiled newspapers should be removed from the whelping box. The box should be lined with soft acrylic type bedding, prior to the puppies' return. The mother should accept the puppies readily and settle down to feed them.
The mother and her litter should be examined by a veterinary surgeon within 24 hours after the delivery is completed. This visit is to check the mother for complete delivery, and to check the new-born puppies. The mother may receive an injection to contract the uterus and stimulate milk production. sometimes antibiotics may be prescribed if it is thought there is any infection present.
The mother may have a bloody vaginal discharge for 3-7 days following delivery. If it continues for longer than one week, she should be examined by a veterinary surgeon for possible problems.
What happens if my dog has trouble delivering her puppies?
Although most dogs deliver without need for assistance, problems do arise which require the attention of a veterinarian. Professional assistance should be sought if any of the following occur:
1. Twenty minutes of intense labour occurs without a puppy being delivered.
2. Ten minutes of intense labour occurs when a puppy or a fluid-filled bubble is visible in the birth canal.
3. The mother experiences sudden depression or marked lethargy.
4. The mother's body temperature exceeds 39.4°C (via a rectal thermometer).
5. Fresh blood discharges from the vagina for more than 10 minutes.
6. If a green discharge is seen without any puppies having been born.
7. More than 2 hours since last puppy and no effective contractions (if more pups to come)
Difficulty delivering (dystocia) may be managed with or without surgery. The condition of the mother, size of the litter, and size of the puppies are factors used in making that decision.
Is premature delivery a likely problem?
Occasionally, a mother will deliver a litter several days premature. The puppies may be small, thin, and have little or no hair. It is possible for them to survive, but they require an enormous amount of care, since they are subject to chilling and are frequently very weak and unable to swallow. Some may be able to nurse but are so weak that they must be held next to the teat. Puppies that do not nurse can be fed with a small syringe, bottle, or via stomach tube. The equipment and instructions for these procedures are available from your veterinary surgeon. Premature puppies must be kept warm. The mother can provide sufficient radiant heat from her body if she will stay close to them. If she refuses, heat can be provided with a heat lamp, heating pad, or hot water bottle. Excessive heat can be just as harmful as chilling, so any form of artificial heat must be controlled. The temperature in the box should be maintained at around 30°C but the box should be large enough so the puppies can move away from the heat if it becomes uncomfortable. In addition the warmth provided by the mother is moist warmth: she is licking and cleaning the puppies and they are suckling; therefore if artificial heat is supplied it is essential to ensure there is sufficient moisture present and a damped towel or wet cotton wool in the whelping box will provide this essential moisture.
Is it likely that one or more puppies will be stillborn?
It is not uncommon for one or two puppies in a litter to be stillborn. Sometimes, a stillborn puppy will disrupt labour, resulting in dystocia. At other times, the dead puppy will be born normally. Although there is always a cause for this occurrence, it is often not easily determined without a full post mortem examination of the puppy including bacteriological examination and submission of tissues to a pathologist. Your veterinary surgeon may in certain circumstances recommend this procedure and it is worthwhile discussing the cost beforehand since sometimes it can be considerable. However it may prevent future problems.
What do I do to care for the newborn puppies?
The mother will spend most of her time with the puppies during the next few days. The puppies need to be kept warm and to nurse frequently; they should be checked every few hours to make certain that they are warm and well fed. The mother should be checked to make certain that she is producing adequate milk.
If the mother does not stay in the box, the puppies' temperatures must be monitored. If the puppies are cold, supplementary heating should be provided. During the first four days of life, the environment for the puppies should be maintained at around 30°C. The temperature may gradually be decreased to 27°C by the seventh to tenth day and to about 22°C by the end of the fourth week. If the litter is large, the temperature need not be as high. As puppies huddle together, their body heat provides additional warmth. Their behaviour will give a guide to whether they are comfortable. If they are warm and content they will be quiet and gaining weight.
If the mother feels the puppies are in danger or if there is too much light she may become anxious. Placing a sheet or cloth over most of the top of the box to obscure much of the light may resolve the problem. An enclosed box is also a solution. Some dogs, especially first-time mothers, are more anxious than others. Such dogs may attempt to hide their young, even from the owner. If the bitch continues to move her puppies from place to place, some attempt at confinement may be worthwhile. However if she is still unsettled, veterinary advice should be sought since the puppies will certainly be endangered if they are placed in a cold or draughty location. If the bitch becomes too distressed she could kill her puppies as a means of "protecting" them from danger.
What are the signs that the puppies are not doing well and what should I do?
Puppies should feed and sleep 90% of the time during the first two weeks. Any "mewing" type noises may indicate lack of nourishment or an infection, i.e. they are not thriving. If in doubt consult your veterinary surgeon.
Another good indication of thriving is weight increase. Any available postal scales will usually suffice for this purpose. Puppies may be identified with fibre tipped pen (non toxic) on the abdomen and careful weight records kept.
When the milk supply is inadequate, supplemental feeding one to three times per day is recommended and should be performed on any litter with more than 5 or 6 puppies. There are several very good commercial formulae available e.g. biolac puppy. The directions on the container should be carefully followed before feeding particularly with regard to temperature. One method of testing the temperature of the feed is to drop some of the warm formula on to your forearm. It should be about the same temperature. The commercial products have directions concerning feeding amounts. If the puppies are still nursing from their mother, the amounts recommended will be excessive. Generally, 1/3 to 1/2 of the listed amount should be the daily goal. Supplemental feeding may be continued until the puppies are old enough to eat puppy food.
If the mother does not produce milk or her milk becomes infected, the puppies will also cry. If this occurs, the entire litter could die within 24 to 48 hours. Total replacement feeding, using the mentioned products, or finding a foster mother is usually necessary. The owner of the stud dog, if a breeder, your local veterinary surgeon, or other breeders may be able to help with this. If replacement feeding is chosen, the amounts of listed on the product container should be fed. Puppies less than 2 weeks of age should be fed every 3-4 hours. Puppies 2-4 weeks of age do well with feedings every 6-8 hours. Weaning in these circumstances, should begin as early as possible and certainly no later than about 3 weeks of age.
What should I expect during the puppies' first few weeks of life?
For the first month of life, puppies require very little care from the owner because their mother will feed and care for them. They are born with their eyes closed, but they will open in 7 to 14 days. If swelling or bulging is noted under the eyelids, they should be opened gently. Cotton wool dampened with warm water may be used to assist opening the lids. If the swelling is due to infection, pus will exit the open eyelids and should be treated as prescribed by a veterinary surgeon. If the eyes have not opened at 14 -16 days of age or if there is any pus or discharge, consult your veterinary surgeon at once.
Puppies should be observed for their rate of growth. They should double their birth weight in about one week. Use scales as described above. The accuracy of the scales is not important, since it is weight increases that you are looking for.
At two weeks of age, puppies should be alert and trying to stand. At three weeks, they generally try to climb out of their box. At four weeks, all of the puppies should be able to walk, run, and play.
Puppies should begin eating solid food about three and a half to four and a half weeks of age. As soon as their eyes are open, one of the bitch milk replacers should be placed in a flat saucer. The puppies' noses can be dipped into this or their noses and mouths wetted with a finger dipped into the formula. Repeat this 2 or 3 times per day until they begin to lap; this usually takes 1-3 days. Next, raw scraped meat can also be smeared around their mouths or alternatively canned puppy (or an egg custard or porridge) food can be placed in the milk until it is soggy. As the puppies lap the milk, they will also ingest the food. The amount of milk should be decreased daily until they are eating the canned food with little or no moisture added; this should occur by 4 to 6 weeks of age. As soon as they are able to eat it is worthwhile weaning them on to one of the complete puppy foods of which there are many today, both dry and canned as well as semi-moist. Most puppies, particularly those of the toy and smaller breeds prefer the canned varieties; however Royal Canin starter is very good. Once the puppy is happy with a complete formula there is no need to add any vitamin or mineral supplements.
I have heard of milk fever. What exactly is it?
Eclampsia, or milk fever, is due to a depletion of calcium in the blood of the mother due to heavy milk production. It generally occurs when the puppies are 3-5 weeks old (just before weaning) and most often to mothers with large litters or with an abundance of milk as some bitches naturally have. Good mothers, especially attentive of their puppies, always seem to suffer more severely.
The mother has muscle spasms resulting in rigid legs, spastic movements, and heavy panting. This can be fatal in 30-60 minutes, so a veterinary surgeon should be consulted immediately. This is a major emergency situation.
Do puppies need a special diet?
Diet is extremely important for a growing puppy. There are many commercial foods specially formulated for puppies. These foods meet their unique nutritional requirements and should be fed until 12-18 months of age. Puppy foods are available in dry and canned formulations. Dry foods are less expensive in the long run and can be left in the bowl for the puppy to eat at will.
We recommend that you buy food formulated for puppies. Adult formulations are not recommended since they do not provide the nutrition required for a puppy. Advertisements tend to promote taste rather than nutrition, so be careful that their influence on purchasing habits is not detrimental to your dog. Table food is not recommended; although often more appealing than dog food, balanced nutrition is not easily achieved.
We recommend that you buy food of a reputable brand, premium is best e.g. Royal Canin, Eukanuba, Hills and Iams.
When should vaccinations begin?
Puppies are provided some immunity to canine diseases from their mother before and shortly after birth. This is particularly true if the dam's vaccinations are up to date. Some of the mother's antibodies cross the placenta and enter the puppies' circulation, but most antibodies are provided in the mother's milk, particularly the first milk or colostrum. These "maternal antibodies" protect the puppies against the diseases to which the mother is immune. This explains why it is so important to ensure that any booster inoculations are administered prior to mating.
Although very protective, maternal antibodies last for only a few weeks; after this time, the puppy becomes susceptible to disease. The duration of the maternal antibodies is quite variable depending on several factors. In general, vaccinations for the puppy should be started at about 6 weeks of age. Puppies should be vaccinated against distemper, hepatitis, kennel cough and parvovirus Other vaccines are also available for certain situations, and will be discussed at the time of the first visit for vaccinations.
Maternal antibodies are passed in the mother's milk only during the first 1-3 days after delivery. If, for any reason, the puppies do not nurse during this important period of time, their vaccinations should begin about 2 to 4 weeks earlier depending on likely disease exposure although some maternal antibodies are transferred throughout the whole of the suckling period via the milk. Your veterinary surgeon can make specific recommendations for each particular situation.
Do all puppies have worms?
Intestinal parasites ("worms") are common in puppies. Sometimes no signs are apparent but often poor condition, chronic soft or bloody faeces, loss of appetite, a pot-bellied appearance, loss of lustre of the haircoat, and weight loss are seen. Some parasites are transmitted from the mother to her offspring and others are carried by fleas. Some are transmitted through the faeces of an infected dog. Very seldom are these parasites visible in the faeces. Their detection depends on demonstration of their eggs under a microscope. Generally puppies are wormed from about 2 weeks of age and medication is usually supplied by your veterinary surgeon at the time of the post natal examination. It is well worth consulting the veterinary surgeon regarding a deworming programme for a litter of puppies rather than purchasing branded products over the counter although these are often effective, although sometimes for types of worms that may not be present in your particular litter.
Buying A Puppy
Things to look for when buying your new Puppy
It’s a very exciting time in life when you and your family decide to get a puppy. Some of the more popular breeds can be a bit more complicated when it comes to getting a healthy puppy. There are many great breeders who will help you throughout the life of your puppy, they are dedicated to their chosen breeds and try to improve and breed for health and good temperaments.
British Bulldogs, French Bulldog, Pugs, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Boxers, Shih Tzu and a number of crosses of these breeds are all “flat faced “dogs.
We love these breeds of dogs and have loads of experience with them – they have gorgeous round faces, with short noses and lots of wrinkles. They have loads of personality and make great additions to the family.
They are mostly happy and healthy little dogs – ok so maybe not all of them are so little lol
How can I choose a healthy puppy?
Choosing A Healthy Puppy
This can be difficult as most health issues are not seen when they are small pups. Be sure to look for the following:
- Ask the breeder what testing the parents have had.
DNA testing only screens for a limited number of diseases. HUU testing is the most useful test, there are many issues that are not screened by DNA testing. DNA tests for colours are not a good indicator for health.
Xrays are a better health screen. Ask the breeder about any x-ray reports that cover the possible risk of:
- Hip Dysplasia
- Hemivertebra (back problems and risk of paralysis)
- Tracheal Hypoplasia
Some other Tests
- Eye tests
- Heart Checks (particularly in CKCS)
- MRI for syringomyelia in CKCS
Some things to look out for
Observe the mother – check her attitude towards people as well as towards her pups. Watch how she moves around, her body shape and if she breaths noisily or if she gags or coughs.
A lot of the time the father may be owned by someone else he may be interstate or with modern technology even overseas, if you can’t physically view the father ask for a picture at least.
Ask if the parents have had any surgeries.
Watch for aggressive behaviour from the mum or puppies this doesn’t include rough play with each other.
Watch for vomiting, gagging or frothing of white foam from the mouth after exercise.
A skinny underweight pup with poor coat quality, skin sores or discharge from ears or eyes is best avoided. A puppy that hides from you or a puppy that is lethargic, lacks appetite or vomits after eating should also be avoided.
Watch if a puppy’s tongue turns blue or white while exercising/ playing.
All puppies should be on their feet by 6 weeks of age even if they are fat or chubby, they should not be swimming (dragging the hind legs / crawling) to move around.
If you have any concerns
If you have any concerns you are best not to buy the first puppy that you see, remember that dogs a re a long term commitment and you will spend many years together if you choose a healthy example of the breed. A very popular myth is that cross breeds are healthier than pure breed dogs this is simply not true with so many designer breeds popping up this has opened a door to bad breeding practices the same can be said of the colour fads in some breeds these are not always the best examples of the breed but choosen for their colour .
What to do when you buy a puppy
It is very important to take your puppy straight to your vet for a puppy check. Your vet can potentially pick up any health concerns with your new puppy that may have been missed. The most important thing is to pick a puppy that will suit your lifestyle and by buying smart you can save yourself and your puppy a life time of heartache.
Junior Vet for a day
Information for Junior Vets
Your child will have the opportunity to see behind the scenes at our veterinary hospital. They will be in a small group, we are having a maximum of 12 children each day. We will have a number of staff working each day, so even if there is a number of emergencies, all the pets and their owners will get the best care and your child will be looked after as well.
Handling animals can be dangerous, so your child will be mainly working with the veterinary staff’s own animals, that have been trained and we know can be trusted with children. They will be able to interact with a number of different types of animals. There will be lots of pet handling. Your child will also have the chance to:
- Look down an otoscope
- Look through an ophthalmoscope
- Listen with a stethoscope
- Look at xrays and see if they can tell what is wrong
- Wear an xray gown and gloves and learn about safety and radiation
- Use an ultraviolet light
- Use a scanner to check for a microchip
- Groom a dog or cat and learn how to clip nails and clean ears
- Learn about normal behaviour and training of animals
- Learn about safety around animals
- Look down a microscope
- Do some pathology tests
- See worms, fleas, ticks and other parasites
- Look down an endoscope.
- For older ones : see how an ultrasound examination can show us what is inside, See surgery equipment
Your child will also learn about the risks of infection, the importance of hygiene [including dental hygiene], asepsis and how all surgery is done in a sterile manner and how this is done. There is a lot more, so much we can’t tell you everything, but I am sure every child will be interested and learn a lot.
Please remember to wear closed-toe shoes and bring your lunch and a drink.
For available spaces please phone us on (02) 9541 1455.
Cost is $110.00 per child and payment is required to secure a booking.
Top 10 POisons for dogs
Top 10 Poisons for Dogs…
1. Chocolate: Chocolate is toxic to dogs. Chocolate is toxic to dogs because it contains a chemical called theobromine and also theophylline which is like caffeine. The type of chocolate and the amount eaten will determine what effects it will have on your dog. Dark chocolate or cooking chocolate are most toxic, milk & white chocolate can be dangerous if your dog eats enough of it. Toxic doses of theobromine are reported to be as low as 20mg/kg where agitation, hyperactivity and gastrointestinal signs like drooling, vomiting and diarrhoea can be seen. At doses over 40mg/kg dogs can exhibit cardiac signs including a racing heart rate, high blood pressure and heart arrhythmias. Doses more than 60mg/kg, neurological signs can be seen, including tremors, twitching and even seizures. Fatalities occur at around 200mg/kg or when complications arise or if your dog has other health issues. Clinical signs of chocolate poisoning can take hours to develop and last for days. So even if your dog loos fine, don’t be deceived it can take up to 72 hours to cause signs. Get to your vet as soon as you realise your dog has eaten chocolate.
2. Xylitol: This is a type of sweetener that is found in diet foods, sugarless chewing gum, lollies, medications and nasal sprays. This causes a rapid drop in blood sugar and causes liver failure and seizures.
3. Over the counter human pain medication: Knowing that your dog is in pain is very stressful however as tempting as it may be to give you r dog one of your own pain relief tablets this should be avoided at all cost. Dogs should not be given any human pain medication as these can be very dangerous even fatal when used improperly. Ibuprofen, naproxen ,Panadol,Advil, Aspirin, Tylenol or any other pain relief are not easily metabolized by dogs and can result in stomach ulcers, vomiting and diarrhoea, intestinal problems, loss of appetite, bleeding disorders, kidney and liver disfunction or failure, they may even die without appropriate treatment.
4. Over the counter cough medicine: Human cough medicine contains compounds that are toxic to dogs like acetaminophen or decongestant such as pseudoephedrine or phenylephrine. Under certain circumstances your vet may prescribe cough medicine for your dog, but this is a specific type that has an active ingredient that dogs can tolerate, and it is prescribed at the correct dose for your pets’ weight. Cough medicine can cause vomiting, dizziness and allergic reactions.
5. Rodenticides( Rat and Mouse Baits): These cause internal bleeding or brain swelling even in small amounts. It is important to get to your vet as soon as possible as it would be best to make your dog vomit up the Rat or Mouse bait. If you wait and see if it effects your dog you could have internal bleeding that you will be unaware of. Bleeding may not be severe for days (up to 21 days) after the bait is eaten, so don’t think that your dog looks ok and therefore take no action.
6. Sultanas, Grapes & Raisins: These harmless human foods are a favourite among children. They are a common lunch box food and also used in stuffing and fruit cakes. While these foods are tasty to us they will cause kidney problems in your dog. As few as 6 sultanas can kill a golden retriever so be very careful.
7.Insect bait stations: Some of these are quite toxic to dogs you need to read the information on the packaging they will have warnings on them regarding pets ,there is also a chance of a stomach obstruction with the plastic casing.
8.Prescription ADD/ ADHD medications:Amphetamines such as Adderall, Concerta, Dexedrine and Vyvanse can cause tremors, seizures, cardiac problems and death in pets
9.Glucosamine joint supplements: Overdoses of these tasty products will only cause diarrhoea in most cases but in rare cases, liver failure can develop.
10.Oxygen absorbers and silica gel packets: Iron- containing oxygen absorbers found in food packages or pet treats can cause iron poisoning. Silica gel packs, found in shoe, purses or backpack are rarely a concern.
Please note that none of the products used as examples are endorsed by Menai Animal Hospital
Top 10 Poisons for cats
Top 10 Poisons for cats
1.Lilies: Plants in the Lilium species, such as Tiger, Easter and Asiatic lilies, can cause kidney failure in cats. These lilies are commonly found in flower arrangements and cats are very attracted to them. All parts of the plant are poisonous and only a small amount of pollen on a stamen is enough to cause problems. Lily toxicity can cause permanent kidney damage and even death in some cases. It is imperative that you seek veterinary assistance as soon as possible.
2.Household cleaners: Most general purpose cleaners are fairly safe, but concentrated products can cause chemical burns on your cat. Don’t forget cats clean themselves and if they get anything on their feet or fur they are fastidious cleaners and will ingest poisons this way.
3. Flea and Tick spot on for dogs: Flea and tick products that are pyrethroid based are great for dogs but can be deadly to cats. Cats are not small dogs or for multi cat households dog doses can’t be divided for cats. These products can cause tremors, seizures and death.
4.Antidepressants: Cymbalta and Effexor topped the Pet Poisons help line in 2013. These drugs cause severe feline neurological and cardiac effects when eaten by your cat. A high enough dose could kill your cat.
5.Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs(NSAIDs) cats are even more sensitive than dogs to these over the counter pain medications. Even drugs that are designed for Vets have to be used with caution in cats. Some drugs that can be used for dogs can not be used for cats. If your cat is given or accidentally eats any of these please seek veterinary help immediately.
6. Prescription ADD/ADHD medications: these drugs have the same toxic effect in cats as in dogs. They cause seizures and can be fatal.
7. Over the counter cough, cold and allergy medications:these are particularly toxic to cats, the ones that contain acetaminophen are really dangerous as they cause damage to the red blood cells and liver failure.
8.Plants containing insoluble calcium oxalate crystals: House plants such as peace lilies, philodendron and pathos can cause mouth ulcers and upper gastrointestinal irritation, foaming at the mouth and inflammation when eaten by cats.
9.Household insecticides: Most of these household sprays and powders are fairly safe but its best to keep cats away from them until the products have dried or settled.
10.Glow sticks and Glow jewellery: A lot of people think that these toys are ok to let cats play with but they contain a chemical called dibutyl phthalate which when it come into contact with the mouth causes pain and excessive foaming. Signs go away quickly if you can get your cat to eat or drink.
